Colorado Porch

Western Slope

Rico Today: A Mining Town That Never Went to Ghost

Plenty of Colorado silver towns emptied out when the ore ran thin. Rico, tucked into the San Juans at roughly 8,800 feet, just kept going. Its 1880s main street still stands, and many of those old buildings have been fixed up and put back to work.

Walk it now and you’ll find that artists make up a real part of the town. Several keep studios and galleries here, and you can often step in and watch the work happen. A few restaurants are scattered through downtown, and there’s a motel plus a handful of bed-and-breakfasts if you want to stay the night rather than just drive through.

The setting does a lot of the talking. The Dolores River runs right past town, good for catching trout from the bank. Old mining roads and singletrack climb the surrounding slopes for mountain biking, and the route over the pass eventually points toward Telluride. When the snow comes, the backcountry around Rico draws skiers.

It’s small, and that’s the appeal. Relics from the 1880s boom still sit in plain view alongside a town that quietly never quit. To plan a visit, start with Colorado.com’s Rico page.

Sources

Official or primary sources used for this note. Local details can change, so confirm before acting.

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History and culture

Rico and the railroad: why a mountain town sits in Dolores County

Rico grew from a silver strike and a narrow-gauge railroad that ran over Lizard Head Pass, which is why a former mining town anchors the county's mountainous east end.

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History and culture

Dove Creek: the county seat that calls itself the Pinto Bean Capital

Dove Creek is the seat of Dolores County and grew up around dryland bean and grain farming, which is why it bills itself as the Pinto Bean Capital of the World.

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History and culture

How the Dolores Project pumps river water up to the Dove Creek farms

The Dolores Project stores Dolores River water in McPhee Reservoir and pumps it many miles to the Dove Creek area, which is why some land that was once dryland now has irrigation and the town has a municipal supply.

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Outdoors and wildfire

The Dolores River Canyon is public land with its own rules

Below McPhee Dam the Dolores River cuts a deep canyon on BLM-managed public land that includes a wilderness study area, and how you can use it is set by the agency, not by general access.

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Water and land

Rafting the lower Dolores River depends on a short, flow-driven season

The whitewater run on the lower Dolores River below McPhee Dam only comes alive when enough water is released, so the boating season can be brief and unpredictable from year to year.

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Local rules

In Dolores County, an address tells you who makes the rules

Dove Creek and Rico are the county's incorporated towns, and everywhere else is unincorporated, where the county commissioners set the land-use rules.

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While you're here

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